Checking Out Your Scuba Gear
Checking out your Scuba Gear
There are two important times when you should check out your Scuba gear. Once when you bring it out of storage and second when you put it all on to dive.
Pulling Scuba gear out of storage:
In previous articles I have touched on the proper way to store various components of your gear, such as hanging up your wet suit and regulator or laying out your regulator properly in your dive bag.
If you’re anything like I was when starting out in the late 50s, then you may not have money to burn so what you do have invested in dive equipment needs to be handled carefully in order for it to last. And it can last for a good number of years if you realize what can happen to shorten its life if not stored properly
. Regulator: Here is the most expensive and important piece of equipment you have purchased. Combined with a dive computer it definitely is the most expensive component.
When you bring your regulator out of storage, depending on how long this piece of your equipment was in storage will alter just how you go about putting it back in use. If it has only been six months to a year since it has seen water, your first task is to put it on a full tank of air and test its function in the shallow end of a swimming pool.
On first try you may have to blow hard on exhale to unstick the exhale diaphragm in the regulator's mouthpiece or second stage. This is very common in that the last time you used it some water may have remained between the rubber diaphragm and the plastic seat and made the two stick together. Usually once this initial sticking is remedied the regulator will breathe normally. Finally, push on the purge button at the front of the regulator to make certain it is functioning properly.
When pushing on your regulator's purge button check to see if there are any small cracks in the rubber/plastic flexible purge area. Most regulators today are designed with a flexible composition purge area that can and will slowly loose its flexibility sooner or later depending on how it is stored.
Of course these compositions are a benefit for the manufacturer in that they allow them to design a more pleasing to the eye product as well as lower their production costs. My personal experience has been with the regulator on the lower left which I used for 20 years and it never gave me a problem. I so called upgraded to one of the composition models that cracked after 8 years of careful attention.
These simple steps should also be performed on the Octo or secondary regulator as well.
Next, inspect the regulator hose connections to determine if there are any leaks depicted by a small stream of bubbles coming from these areas. Make certain to swivel any connections that can be and watch for air leaks while doing it. Each one of these connections whether swivel or fixed contains a small “O” ring that has a limited life and needs to be replaced on occasion. This should be accomplished by a trained repairman if leaking because it’s not going to get any better only worse.
While checking the hose connections also check the hoses themselves. Are there any kinks in the hoses where something may have pinched it or it was bent while in storage? When looking for bubbles around the hose fittings pay particular attention to the high-pressure hose that feeds your pressure gauge or computer. Are there small bubbles attaching themselves to the hose?
This is very important because these small bubbles are not coming from outside but it is the high-pressure air coming through the skin of the hose. This is a definite sign of the hose breaking down and needs to be replaced. Because this hose has an internal pressure of up to 3,500 lbs., unlike the other hoses that carry only 250 lbs.
The high-pressure hose has a very small inlet where it connects to the first stage to reduce a catastrophic release of the high-pressure air should a hose rupture occur however, even with this design the tank pressure will begin to fall so the surface should be reached as quickly yet safely as possible.
Buoyancy Compensator Device or BCD: While you are in the shallow end of a pool, hook up your BCD, inflate it and check not only the inflator hose connection but also all the dump valves to see that they not only dump air but properly seal back up. Hold each valve under water to determine its sealing.
Tank: If you have your own tank be sure the VIP sticker is current, a year from its inspection, as well as the hydro test date, within 5 years of the latest stamp into the tank. Even if you are going locally and your tank is still full from your last dive, if you plan on making multiple dives and your tank inspection is not current the location will not fill it for repetitive dives.
I had a professor in college that used to say "here is some information that is over and above your tuition" If you have the opportunity to purchase a used tank from a garage or estate sale be aware of what you are looking at. First of all is the tank steel or aluminum? This can be determined by using a magnet against the tank. If the tank is aluminum check the original manufacturers date on the top. If you see any date before 89 there are certain areas of the country that will not fill certain makes of tanks before this date due to them having impurities in the aluminum that might allow them to explode.
I know this is prevalent in Florida but I am not certain how widespread it is to other states. If everything looks right and there are no signs of any damage, such as deep nicks to the outside of the tank or the valve stem, see if there is air in the tank and if you can bring your regulator or a test gauge to see just how much. If it does contain about 500 or more pounds the inside will probably be free of any problems or can be easily washed out. Nevertheless the air remaining should be dumped before any is added.
Now if you find out the tank is steel there is no date problem but if a look inside can be made this is important due to steel tanks rusting internally if water is allowed to enter. Once again having air in the tank is a positive however, depending how it was stored will possibly have an effect on any condensation forming.
On either type of tank a look inside can be beneficial and you can do this by bleeding out the air. Following this you should be able to bump the valve stem handle with the palm of your hand to open it due to it being an "O" ring seal. Once open you can shine a small flashlight into the opening to check the interior for any water and/or rust.
An effective and inexpensive flashlight and one I used while working at a dive shop, is made by AlltroLite. It has a head that will fit in the 3/4 inch opening of the tank as well as an extendable portion that will allow you to see all the way to the bottom of the tank.
Even if these tests are satisfactory, keep in mind that you will probably have to pay for a new VIP inspection and maybe a new hydro inspection. These two tests combined will usually cost upwards of $40 so when discussing the purchase price compare it plus the $40 to the cost of a new tank. A new aluminum tank will run in the neighborhood of $200.
Mask and Fins: You shouldn't have any problem with the straps on your mask or fins in a years' time however, it depends on when you replaced them last. Just stretch them all to see if there is any checking or tears in the straps.
Weights: If you use a weight belt and haven't touched it since the last dive, remember what dive you were on and if where you are going this time has the same conditions such as salt or fresh water or if you're going to use a wet suit or not. If you have to fly to your destination try to remember how much weight you will need when you arrive.
Now what if you are pulling your gear out of storage and it's been three to five years since you were in the water? First of all a lot depends on just where you had your gear stored and how. As I had mentioned in a previous blog, you can prolong the life of your equipment just by storing it properly.
By not exposing your regulators, BCD, mask and fins to high temperatures or stuffing them into a cramped dive bag you will be ahead of the game when it comes time to use them.
Go through the same inspection progress as mentioned earlier however, be very cautious when performing them. Time and storage for a long time can see deterioration to both rubber as well as plastic components that must be attended to. I would strongly suggest you look into taking your regulator and BCD to a qualified dive shop to have them gone over. You might be surprised at the cost if you stored them properly.
Putting Your Gear on to Dive
Now that you have recovered, inspected and transported your gear to the dive site, let's look at what is necessary for a safe dive.
You're on the dive boat and it's time to place your buoyancy compensator on the tank. As you slide the tank strap over the tank make certain first that the tank valve outlet is facing forward and then that the retainer loop is fitted over the tank valve. This little device is often overlooked when putting a BCD on the tank and is there to hold the tank from slipping down or up should the main strap fail to hold tight on the tank during a dive. In order to not have this happen proper cinching up of the BCD strap is essential. It takes some effort to really clamp down on the tank with the cam action of the harness and some checking ahead of time to the proper threading of the strap is a good idea.
Proper Threading of a BCD Tank Strap
Following the BCD attachment comes the regulator. Make certain to place the regulator seat directly on the rubber "O" ring of the tank valve and that the regulator is in its upright position before clamping down with the knob. Try not to move the regulator after this to avoid breaking the seal. Once the tank is turned on the regulator will not move on the seat. This is also the time to check your air supply to determine a proper fill of air or Nitrox.
The next move is to concentrate on the various regulator hoses and where they go on the BCD. The hose for filling the BCD should be connected to the proper fitting and a short test of the fill button should be attempted. then the spare regulator or "Octo" should be attached to the BCD with a quick disconnect and where it will not drag on the bottom. A lot of instructors will say the Octo is there for your buddy if they run out of air. In fact it's there for you because your buddy in panic may reach for your primary regulator knowing you are getting air so the Octo becomes your regulator. The air gauge and computer hose should also be attached to the BCD in an area where you can refer to it occasionally during the dive. Finally the primary regulator should be located and ready for you to recover once you put on the BCD. If not readily available you can reach back, over your shoulder to locate the primary hose at the tank valve and follow it out to the regulator.
If you are using integrated weights they should also be installed prior to you donning the BCD however, I have found that if the weights are installed in the front of the BCD it becomes more difficult to get your arms in the shoulder loops with the weights dragging down the front of the BCD, therefore I will usually install the front weights after I have it on.
As I have said in the past, a number of brass swivel snaps are invaluable in order to attach items to your BCD. One will hold your Octo, another your safety sausage and yet another for a light etc.
During all this preparation you will find your buddy one of the most helpful accessories on the boat. You should assist each other in getting prepared. Spotting a hose trapped or a cinch strap not attached is invaluable once you get in the water.
The configuration of the boat will determine if you put fins on before going to the jump off point because there may not be enough room to get there without tripping or annoying other divers. Your mask should have had defog in it and been rinsed out to go. Snorkels seem to be a matter of choice because I have seen some with and some without.
Finally, get in the water and enjoy yourself!
George