Diving Equipment Do’s, Don’ts and Observations
Let’s assume you have just passed your certification course to be a qualified scuba diver. Now all you have to do is acquire the necessary diving equipment to replace the rental gear you may have been using during the course.
You should decide just what item of equipment you should look into first, second, etc. If you haven't taken the course yet I suggest you don't purchase any major piece of equipment until you have finished, reason being you may flunk out due to some physical impairment or you just don't feel comfortable underwater. You won't know these things until you are subjected to them.
Let me start by saying that I spent 10 years working at a dive shop following retirement from my regular full time job. I not only sold equipment but also handled all the regulator repairs for most manufacturers that came through the door.
Mask: You probably purchased this item before you took the certification course but if not make certain you take the time to fit a mask properly to your face. Don't make color or cool influence your decision, get the fit right or you will pay for it by constantly trying to clear the water from the inside during a dive. A simple trick is to put the mask to your face and inhale from your nose. If it is a good fit the mask can be held to your face by the suction. Before using a new mask rub toothpaste on the inside of the lens twice rinsing it out after each time. Following this clean any toothpaste residue out with soap. Reason for this ritual is that there is a thin film of silicone on the lens from manufacturing the masks. If you don't get this residue off your mask will fog due to it being there.
Now you may still have some fogging problems because some of your breath will go into the mask during a dive. You can purchase a commercial defog substance but an alternative is "No More Tears" baby soap rubbed on the inside of the lens and washed out. Being baby soap it wont burn your eyes if you miss washing it out completely. Finally, when everything else fails, you can do what we did in the ‘50s which was to spit into your mask and wash it out. If you have ever watched the swimmers in the Olympics you might catch them licking the inside of their goggles before diving in.
Fins: For this product you have many choices the first being strap or shoe type. I've dived with people who use the shoe style fin but for most the choice is strap type. The main reason for this is if you dive where the water temperature requires you wear a wet suit to be comfortable you will probably be wearing wet suit boots that will require additional space for your foot to fit into the fin pocket. This can be accomplished by simply letting out on the strap whereas with the shoe type you will have to pick a middle of the road size in order to satisfy both situations. One other drawback of the shoe fin is if you have to put on a burst of speed underwater you could possible swim out of them if not fitting properly.
Finally there is the split fin! They were very popular for a time with the claim that they didn't put as much strain on the divers legs, and this was true. Unfortunately the reason they reduced the strain was because they allowed some of the water to pass through the fin which reduced leg strain but also reduced propulsion forward defeating the main purpose of a fin which is to propel you through the water as efficiently as possible.
Snorkel: Here is an item that you probably had to have for the certification class. How much you use it after that will depend on your own comfort level. Of course if you do just some skin diving without a tank, it will suit you fine however, carrying it on a regular tank dive is optional. Most of the seasoned divers I see don't bother carrying a snorkel because it begins to just be an annoyance attached to the side of your mask. It vibrates in current, gets in the way of your vision and is of very little use once you surface. If you go by the 500 lbs of air back on the boat rule, you should be able to breath off your regulator on your way back. If you do run out of air you can just inflate your BCD by mouth and either swim on your back or wait for the boat to come to you.
Regulator: This should be your initial piece of equipment to purchase. Why, because it's the most personal item you will use and the major one for staying alive underwater. By personal I mean that the regulator mouthpiece goes in your mouth and supplies you with the air you need.
If you want to go on a trip, either locally or away, you may have to rent equipment. The fact that you are able to carry your regulator with you gives you that level of confidence that you know it's going to perform as well or better than a rental one plus you're the only one that's used it. Even divers that have all the equipment will carry their regulator with them on an airplane while the remainder of their gear is in the luggage compartment just in case their luggage is lost in transit.
How much should you pay? This tends to be an open ended question and is answered with a number of other questions. The first question is what type diving do you intend to do now and in the future? The areas to consider is cold water, deep diving, special mix gases, etc. Most regulators on the market will handle these areas but some are built for the extremes of these conditions.
With regulators the phrase "You get what you pay for" does not necessarily apply. The only time it does is when you try to pick up a used regulator at a very cheap price. Let's drop the word "cheap" and replace it with "inexpensive". A new regulator can be inexpensive and still be a good reliable regulator. For this reason you shouldn't be misled to a higher priced model if you're just going to do occasional recreational diving, say 10 or 15 times a year or less in general conditions. Of course if you have money to burn have at it.
If you choose to purchase a regulator through the internet buy a new one from a established dive supplier but make certain that it's a brand that one of your local dive shops carry. The reason for this is all manufacturers include a one or two year warranty and request that you service the regulator after each of the two years, at an authorized shop that handles their brand, in order to have their warranty honored. In the long run you will be better off all around it you purchase it from your local shop in the first place seeing the prices don't vary much and you may even get a package deal by purchasing the other items that complement the main regulator. If you see a better price on the internet, let the shop owner know because they work on a margin and there may be some wiggle room with their pricing. Finally the model you saw on line may have since been upgraded and this may be the reason for the price differential.
Keep in mind that along with the basic regulator, you will also need an Octopus “Octo” or spare regulator, an air gauge and a BCD inflator hose. All these items should be purchased together even though you can interchange a different manufacturers octo but shouldn't mix manufacturer's first stage with second stage primary regulators.
Having entered the dive market in the mid ‘50s, Let me share my observation of a feature on most current day regulator second stages, or the portion of the regulator that you put in your mouth to breath from. A number of regulators on the market are designed with an adjustment knob attached to the side of the regulator. This is an additional knob that you can turn for hard or easy breathing.
This is nothing new because Dacor came out with this in 1959 on their double hose regulators. They called it Dial-A-Breath and it simply consisted of installing a small plate in the air intake that could be turned manually to restrict the air flow being delivered to the diver.
What their claim was that by making it harder for the diver to breath, they would use less air and thereby prolong their dive time. Does this sound a little counterproductive for the diver who's main reason for going underwater is to breath as effortless as possible.
The only reason for this being brought back by a lot of manufacturers may be to use the restricting setting in shallow water to ward off free flow and open it up when deep or if you become fatigued and need easier breathing. Personally I feel it should be left on easy all the time and let you decide when you need air and how much. After all it's known as a "demand type regulator" which means if you demand it the regulator will give you air.
Now I know the various regulator companies will come up with a number of ways this added device will benefit the diver but for the general diving population it is very seldom adjusted from its easy breathing position. If a diver accidentally moves the dial they sooner or later come into the shop wondering why it's hard to breath.
Buoyancy Compensation Device (BCD): Here is your second most important major item to purchase. Once again they all will accomplish the same end results, the difference is in a few areas that your type of diving may dictate the model.
First make certain that you purchase one that fits you comfortably. Keep in mind that you may be wearing a wet suit under the BCD so allow for that extra room but don't get it too big because it will tend to ride up on you when inflated. If you're going to do a lot of diving that involves travel, a light weight model might be a consideration however, they may not have as much lift capacity or pockets and D rings to attach accessories.
Once again it depends on what type of diving you intend to do but as a novice just entering the sport, the basic design is sufficient to satisfy most diving conditions you will enter into. You may want to explore the versatility of the BCD in that it may have some features that may appeal to you such as adequate D rings which are handy to attach accessories. You may also want to have it equipped with weight pockets instead of having to wear a separate weight belt. And make sure the pockets are easy to remove in case dumping them is necessary in an emergency.
Single or double tank straps are another choice that you may be faced with. Double straps tend to hold the tank more securely but if you don't tighten even these properly the tank might slip.
Dive Computer: This is a very important item that makes diving not only easy but more enjoyable. First of all the computer eliminates the need to consult tables every time you plan on going in the water and gives you more time underwater.
You probably had some difficulty learning how to use the diving tables during your certification class. There has been some talk of eliminating them from the lessons but I think they should be maintained because, if nothing else, they teach the novice diver the basics of how a computer works.
Referring back to the ‘50s, there were no computers available and the Navy Diving Tables were all we had to go with. If you were going to do one dive or multiple dives we had to sit down and plot out the dive on paper to stay safe. The Navy Tables were the basis of the tables available today.
I remember my early usage of a dive computer. Back in the late ‘80s I purchased what was known as a Skinny Dipper, and later a Marathon, made by Orca. It was a very simple computer and very easy to read and understand. It gave you three read-outs which were Depth, Time Elapsed and Time left at whatever depth you were at. Besides that it maintained a history of your dive and displayed it when you reached the surface. It would not keep a log of the previous dives but it did have a memory of what your last dives were so it could take those in consideration during multiple dives. It also showed how much surface time passed and also time to fly. It had light alarms for surfacing too fast as well as one to warn when bottom time was up.
I remember vividly my first use of a dive computer when I was diving with my son and taking photos of various subjects underwater. I was amazed just what the computer was telling me of how much time I had before surfacing. Unfortunately by concentrating on my computer during the dive, I completely forgot to check my air. Let's face it if you're at a depth where the computer will give you much more time than your air will allow you’re in trouble if you rely on the computer alone.
What's neat about today's computers is that you can purchase one that has a readout for air as well as the other information you need. If you don't want to spend the money for this feature, just make certain to mount your air gage in such a manner so you can view it along with your computer.
Fortunately my son had enough air left due to being smaller and not running back and forth taking photos. We were able to buddy breath and reach the surface safely.
What is the other big benefit with dive computers over using the tables to calculate your dive profile? You may answer that it is no longer necessary to go through the time consuming tables to arrive at an answer along with keeping an eye on your watch to know when to surface.
You would be partially right in your conclusions but one of the main benefits in using a computer is that it extends your time underwater. When you used tables it would require entering the deepest depth you were planning to dive and then it would give you a time you could spend at that depth before returning to the surface. In addition your time was calculated from the minute you left the surface until you lifted off from the bottom.
Unfortunately, this was not accurate in that most dives do not find the diver going down to the maximum depth and staying there for the entire dive. Whether you're diving a reef or a wreck you very seldom stay at one level. For this reason the computer is designed to give you additional time for those periods when you are less than the maximum depth and takes away for the times where you go deeper. What this means therefore is that in most cases it increases your time underwater. But keep an eye on your air gauge!
Eventually my faithful Skinny Dipper ran its course and stopped working after a number of years of service. I moved up to a newer computer that gave me the same basic information but also allowed me to record dives in its memory.
Some time ago I was looking on Ebay and low and behold there was a Marathon Dive Computer for $60. I purchased it and to this day it is still working. Just for fun I carry it along and compare it to my newer computer and, guess what, it records the dives right along with my present one. It also gives me some comfort in that it could be a backup if anything happens to my regular computer. It's also a great conversation piece on the dive boats.
Now don't run out and try to find one of these 20 year old computers to use for a primary one because there is a limit to all electronic devices and I would imagine these would crap out sooner than the newer models along with it not giving you all the details a newer one would like different gas combinations or a log for your dives.
Safety Sausage: This accessory doesn’t seem to be a very important piece of equipment at first but if you’re planning on doing any ocean diving you may find out it will be a life saver. Various configurations of sausages are available however, the main thing is to get one. It should be a permanent attachment on your BCD. There are two main usages for this item, the first being to fill it before you reach the surface to signal the boat traffic that you are about to surface. The second is to inflate it when reaching the surface to signal the dive boat you came out on that you are in need of a pickup. Where this item is especially important is when the water is choppy from the winds because it is very difficult to see a diver on the surface among the wave action.
Miscellaneous Equipment
Like any sports enthusiasts you can get carried away with the various accessories on the market but there are a few that should be a must have on your list.
Octo Keeper: Here is an item that you may feel is not that important however, it can mean the difference between saving your buddy or yourself. The keeper is usually attached to the mouthpiece of your spare or Octo regulator. It should be a firm enough hold yet can be pulled out when necessary. There are a couple of keepers that have been on the market for some time and it's up to you as to which one you choose but do choose one. It should be in a position where you or your buddy can get to it easily. A lot of divers say the octo is for your buddy but in a panic situation your buddy, if not that experienced, will go for the regulator in your mouth so therefore the octo becomes for you.
The other main reason for using an Octo keeper is to prevent the spare regulator from dragging on the reef damaging plants and coral. Finally it also can be caught between a fisher in the rocks and put strain on the regulator and hose.
Dive Knife: A dive knife, for most divers, is a tool not to be used against sharks or other large predators. It doesn't have to be a large heavy one that you would need a leg sheath to carry it around, but one that would fit on or in your BCD. Its main purpose is to cut fishing lines that you may encounter along a reef that attaches itself to your arm or leg. Some divers lately opt for a pair of scissors that accomplish the same thing but in my mind are not as versatile.
Compass: Another item to look at would be a compass. If you are diving in an area where you don't have a reference point to follow, such as a reef line or wreck you would have to rely on the compass to take you a distance out and return to your entrance point. These are also handy on a night dive where your visibility is the length of your dive light. I prefer one that can be worn on your BCD and is attached to a retractable cord where you can bring it in front of you to take a reading and then let it retract back to your vest. Also you will not need it on every dive so it can be detached and stored for another time.
Gloves: Gloves go without saying especially if you are diving on a wreck. You may have to steady yourself in a current by holding on to the wreck superstructure that is always rusty and can cut hands that are not only bare but soft from being in the water. Another situation is following a buoy rope down to a marked area. Because it’s been in the water a long time it has all sorts of prickly invaders attached to it which makes it very rough and can even have some animals that can cause a rash. It's interesting but I have run into some dive boats that will not let the divers wear gloves because they feel it encourages people to touch what they shouldn't thereby damaging the reef or the inhabitants.
Noise Maker: Another good investment is a noise maker to get your buddies attention. This can be as simple as a "Tank Banger" which is a stretch band around your tank with a ball that can be pulled out and let go to make a noise. Pulling out your knife and banging it against you tank is also effective. You can also purchase a device that is mounted on your BCD air line between the hose and the BCD inflation device. Some are effective not only underwater but on the surface to hail a boat. Lastly you can always shout underwater. You'd be surprised how far your voice travels in this media. In fact, as I had touched on in the book, if you have been diving long enough with the same buddy you can even talk under water. If you get right up next to their ear you can mouth words similar to a ventriloquist and believe me it works.
Swivel Snaps: I only title this swivel snaps because it's what I have been using for over 60 years. The double ended brass ones are the best, I like ones that are 3 or 4 inches long. You can purchase all the plastic ones you want but nothing holds up like brass. I even have one or two attached to my BCD just in case I need them or someone else does. I use them to keep my computer and air gage in front of me and even use them to attach my octopus keeper.
That's all for now, keeping your equipment in good shape will be coming down the road in another blog.
George